Description
Hydrolyzed soy is especially rich in proteins.
Skin conditioning activity
This activity is due to soy’s proteins content. Because of their polar nature, proteins easily bind water molecules through hydrogen bonds. When superficial moisturizing is involved, this action is almost not influenced by the molecular weight; however, if penetration and moisturizing of deeper skin layers is required, short-chain peptides – with lower molecular weights – are more effective.
Lifting effects of two high molecular weight proteins in aqueous solution is also evaluated. The results showed that incorporating proteins into an aqueous formulation significantly decreased Ei during the treatment period. This finding could be explained by the capacity of proteins to form a coating film on the skin surface, which resulted in a lifting effect.
Thus, low molecular weight proteins are good moisturizers for deep skin layers and high molecular weight proteins – because of their filmogenic action – are good moisturizers for the skin surface, as well as good firming and soothing agents.
Additionally, regardless the molecular weight, all protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives improve the compatibility between tensioactive substances and skin/mucosa, thus reducing tensioactive-induced irritation (Griesbach et al., 1998).
Therefore, hydrolyzed soy is recommendable to formulate skin conditioning cosmetic products.
Hair conditioning activity
Conditioning agents are expected to provide smoothness and shine to the hair, facilitate combing and reduce static electricity. A number of ingredients may be used to formulate hair conditioners including protein hydrolyzates (Dureja, H. et al., 2005).
Proteins protect the hair from environmental damage, repair and condition it, increase elasticity and reduce the risk of breakage (Griesbach U. et al., 1998).
Proteins are polymer chains with hydrophilic groups (hydroxyl, carboxyl and amine groups), which easily bind water molecules. Protein hydrolysis generates more carboxyl- and amine-terminal groups, thus increasing water-retention under high relative humidity conditions.
Thus, because of their hydrophilic nature, protein hydrolyzates can retain water; the more hydrolyzed the protein, the higher the water-retention. Qualitative data have demonstrated higher water-retention and better regulation of water-absorption and release for protein hydrolyzate-treated hair (Chahal, S.P., 1999).
Low molecular weight proteins can penetrate to the hair-shaft cortex, thus repairing, strengthening and protecting it from the inside. High molecular weight proteins are good hair soothing and protecting agents, because of their ability to coat the hair-shaft surface (Huetter, I., 2003).
Therefore, hydrolyzed soy is recommended to formulate cosmetic products with hair conditioning and repairing activity.
Appearance: Light yellow to slight turbid liquid
Recommended dosage: 0.5-5%
Solubility: Soluble in aqueous solution
Product Origin: Spain
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